Todays session: 17/02/11

Great session today. Quick, tough, strength endurance session. Here it is:

4 circuits with a 24 kg kettlebell. 2 minutes rest between sets.

Swings 20 reps
Snatch L/H 10 reps
Snatch R/H 10 reps
Cleans L/H 10 reps
Cleans R/H 10 reps
Thrusters L/H 10 reps
Thrusters R/H 10 reps
Swings 20 reps

So, 100 reps in total per set.
Rest only at the top of any movement, so whilst in the rack position or kettlebell overhead.

I recorded the following stats:

Set 1
Time: 4:32
Average HR: 146
Peak HR: 163
Calories: 60

2 minute rest

Set 2:
Time: 4:36
Average HR: 157
Peak HR: 174
Calories: 71

2 minute rest

Set 3:
Time: 4:34
Average HR: 168
Peak HR: 180
Calories: 78

2 minute rest

Set 4:
Time: 4:36
Average HR: 172
Peak HR: 182
Calories: 84

Number crunching on the Concept 2 rower!

Drag Factor
We’re all aware of course of the slider control on the fan wheel of the rower, you know the one, it’s usually set on ‘number 10′ whenever you get on the machine. This slider determines the amount of air allowed to enter the flywheel. A higher number will allow more air in which will in turn, slow down the fly wheel quicker.

Guys tend to favour a higher setting due to their ego getting in the way but the fact is a higher setting won’t actually suit many people. Higher numbers generally suit more powerful rowers whilst light weight rowers would be better served on a lower number. It takes a bit of experimentation to find the right resistance which maximises your performance. Many of the competitive rowers use a damper setting of between 4 and 5 since this best represents rowing on water. I, personally use a damper setting of 5 on my Concept 2 at home.

However, there is another problem here. Not all rowers are the same. This is where drag factor comes in.

Drag factor is a numerical value for the rate at which the flywheel is decelerating. It is calculated during the recovery part of the stroke.

On a new, or indeed a well maintained rower, the drag factor (the resistance at the flywheel) will be about 90 on level 1 and 210 at level 10. On my rowers at my local not very well maintained gym, the drag factor rating is only 90-110 on the number 10 setting. This is because they are clogged full of dust and in desperate need of a service. Atmospheric conditions and air temperture will also affect drag factor.

To display the drag factor on either a Model C rower or Model D just follow the instructions below.

To view drag factor: on a Model C (generally ‘grey’ rowers) On a PM2/PM2+:
Turn the monitor on.
Wait for zeros to be displayed.
Simultaneously press Ready and Rest.
Row to display your drag factor.
On a Model D (blue coloured rowers)

On a PM3 or PM4:

Press Menu|Back until the Main Menu is displayed.
Select More Options.
Select Display Drag Factor.
Take a few strokes. After a couple of seconds, the monitor will display the drag factor.
Once you know how to do this you can then determine a ‘drag factor’ that suits you and set each rower you use to the appropriate intensity. So, in simplistic terms, number 5 on one rower won’t neccessarily equate to the same resistance as number 5 on the rower sitting next door to it. Now you will have consistency across all rowers which is very beneficial if you are using multiple rowers at your gym. So, don’t go by the number on the slider but set the slider instead until it produces the correct drag factor number. This takes me to the next point:

Determining the best drag factor for you.

Experimenting with different drag factor settings is the best way to find one that enables you to produce your best results.
Bear in mind that at a lower drag setting, such as 70-100, the flywheel will spin up quite quickly but that doesn’t equate to quicker rowing times since you will get less meters per pull. On a higher setting such as 130-180 you will clearly have a lot more resistance when you pull, but providing you have the power you will produce more metres per stroke. It’s all about finding the balance. I like to equate it to either a diesel or a petrol engine, which are you? A petrol, Lots of revs (high stroke rate, low resistance) or a diesel, Lots of torque ( low stroke rate high resistance, probably somewhere in between!
Understanding the monitor.
OK, here’s a picture of a PM3 monitor. Top left is the time that you have been training. This could be a rest period or a work period if you are doing intervals.




To the right of this is your stroke rate. I tend to work with a stroke rate of between 28 and 32 so quite fast. However if working for power you can produce the same ‘pace’ at 25 spm as you can at 32 spm. Same pace but completely different session!

Now the important one. The 500 metre pace. This is the figure that’s most relevant. This represents the time it would take you to row 500 metres at your current speed and intensity. The quicker and harder you pull the lower the number gets. so for example, 2.05 showing on the display eqates to 2 minutes and 5 seconds per 500 metres. Once you get familiar with these numbers, you will instictively know what’s a comfortable pace, a moderate pace and a fast pace. For me I know that 2.00 minute pace is a pace I can hold for along period or a steady state pace that leaves me sat in the so called ‘ fat burning zone’. (there’s something for another article!) 1.45 PER 500 metres is a good Aerobic threshold pace for me whilst 1.35 per 500 metres is a quick pace at an anaerobic capacity which I use for short intervals. Of course as your fitness improves so will all your pace times.

The ‘ave/500′ underneath represents your average pace for either the duration of the row if it’s a single piece or the average for the current interval you’re on.

Split metres: A typical split refers to the average time to complete a certain distance. For example, if you rowed an 8:00 for a 2,000 m ergometer piece, your 500m split time is 8 minutes divided by 4 (2:00).

Projected: (bottom) This is the overall time or distance you will accrue/cover by the end of your session. The functionality here is only relevant if you have set the monitor up for a certain distance or time. For example, if you have set the rower up for a timed 2K then as soon as you begin rowing, your finish time will be displayed. Of course this is constantly changing as you either increase or decrease your speed.

Likewise, if you set the monitor up for a 20 minute row, then your projected finishing distance will be displayed. This is very useful information as it enables you to ‘pace’ yourself for a certaind time or distance.

Once you understand all of this information and it becomes more than just a bunch of numbers, I guarantee you will have a far more productive session on the Concept 2 rower!

Don’t forget to check out the concept 2 website, http://concept2.co.uk/ They have a lot of good stuff on there including articles on fat loss and rowing technique. There is also a pace calculator and interactive programmes for all fitness levels that you can follow. Best of all though though is a feature called ‘ranking’ whereby you can log your times over several different timed and distanced pieces and see how you compare to people all over the world!

I sincerely hope this article adds to your enjoyment on the Concept 2 rower.

Concept 2 interval session.

Hi folks, Here's a workout you can try on a Concept 2 rower.
It's a toughie, of course, I know of no other kind'. You can use the rower or indeed any other form of CV equipment. In my description here, I have gone for my personal fave piece of CV kit, the Concept 2 rower. It's a terrific piece of kit that simply can't be beaten as a means of improving your fitness and stripping away your body fat whist at the same time working all the muscles of your body. Being non impact it's also easy on the joints.
At the end of this piece I will also go into detail on 'Drag factor' and what it means and why it's important to you.

OK, the workout itself. here goes:

In total you will do 4 to 6 intervals. Each interval will last 6 minutes. However, each interval is further split down into 3 intervals. These intervals will last 3 then 2 then 1 minute hence making a 6 minute overall interval.
For example: 3 minutes at 2:10 pace followed by 2 minutes at 1:55 pace followed by 1 minute at 1:40 pace
You will follow this patten 4 to 6 times for a workout that will last between 24 and 36 minutes. Simply set up the rower for 4 to 6 times 6 minute duration with no rest in between each 6 minute segments.

Why is this workout so tough? Well, providing you choose appropriate pacing, there won't be much let up in the intensity throughout. In order to help you choose the correct pace you will need to be aware of your 1 minute 'quick' pace. This isn't a flat out pace but certainly a pace that will be difficult to maintain for a minute.
Once you have established this, reduce it by 10 to 15 seconds to get your other two paces. So, for example, if your quick pace is 1:50 per 500 metres then your 2 minute pace will be between 2:00 and 2:05 and your 3 minute pace between 2:10 and 2:15 per 500 metres. A 10 second differential is clearly going to be tougher than a 15 second one.
The discipline in this session is not so much the 2 and 1 minute sections although they 'should' be tough, but the 3 minute section. When you have finished your 1 minute piece, you will just want to stop and try to get your breath back but don't! That first minute of the 3 is a real killer despite the lower pace but slug it out. You will recover though once you get past this tough minute. By the time you get to minutes 2 to 3 of the 3 minute section you will be in recovery mode and be ready for the faster intervals to follow.

So, to simplify: 4-6 rounds of 6 minute duration. Each round to consist of:
3 minutes moderate pace, 2 minutes fast pace, 1 minute near max pace. Repeat.
I'm sure you can understand why this would be easy to translate to other pieces of CV kit.

Drag Factor

We're all aware of course of the slider control on the fan wheel of the rower, you know the one, it's usually set on 'number 10' whenever you get on the machine. This slider determines the amount of air allowed to enter the flywheel. A higher number will allow more air in which will in turn, slow down the fly wheel quicker. Guys tend to favour a higher setting due to their ego getting in the way but the fact is a higher setting won't actually suit many people. Higher numbers generally suit more powerful rowers whilst light weight rowers would be better served on a lower number. It takes a bit of experimentation to find the right resistance which maximises your performance. Many of the competitive rowers use a damper setting of between 4 and 5 since this best represents rowing on water. I, personally use a damper setting of 5 on my Concept 2 at home.

However, there is another problem here. Not all rowers are the same. This is where drag factor comes in. On a new or indeed a well maintained rower, the drag factor (the resistance at the flywheel) on the number 10 setting is approximately 210. On my rowers at my local not very well maintained gym, the drag factor rating is only 90 on the number 10 setting. This is because they are clogged full of dust and in desperate need of a service.
To display the drag factor on either a Model C rower or Model D just follow the instructions below.

To view drag factor: on a Model C rower

Turn the monitor on.
Wait for zeros to be displayed.
Simultaneously press Ready and Rest.

On a Model D

Press Menu|Back until the Main Menu is displayed.
Select More Options.
Select Display Drag Factor.
Take a few strokes. After a couple of seconds, the monitor will display the drag factor.

Once you know how to do this you can then determine a 'drag factor' that suits you and set each rower you use to the appropriate intensity. Now you will have consistency across all rowers which is very beneficial if you are using multiple rowers at your gym. So, don't go by the number on the slider but set the slider instead until it produces the correct drag factor number.
Experiment with different drag factor settings until you find one that enables you to produce your best results.
Finally, bear in mind that at a lower drag setting, such as 50-70, the flywheel will spin up quite quickly but that doesn't equate to quicker rowing times since you will get less meters per pull. On a higher setting such as 130-180 you will clearly have a lot more resistance when you pull, but providing you have the power you will produce more metres per stroke. It's all about finding the balance. I like to equate it to either a diesel or a petrol engine, which are you? A petrol, Lots of revs (high stroke rate, low resistance) or a diesel, Lots of torque ( low stroke rate high resistance, probably somewhere in between!

Try the session, it will be tough so long as you select the correct pace settings.
Good luck people!

Todays session: 08/02/11 Density training.

Density training again today and a part repeat of my January 22nd session.
Snatches: did the following:

12KG x 10/10 HR 122
16KG X 10/10 HR 143
20KG X 10/10 HR 153
24KG X 10/10 HR 159
28KG X 10/10 HR 165
32KG X 10/10 HR 172
28KG X 10/10 HR 173
24KG X 10/10 HR 173
20KG X 10/10 HR 173
16KG X 10/10 HR 172
12KG X 10/10 HR 169

Total time: 11 minutes 53 seconds
Average Heart rate: 156
Peak Heart rate: 174
Calories: 182

This is 3 minutes quicker than my previous best but with exactly the same average heart rate which I am extremely pleased about!

Next up was what I thought was the same exercise as I did last time with the snatches but for some reason I wrote it down in the my workout book wrong. Instead of putting 'cleans' I put down 'Jerks'. 3 sets in, I noticed that my RHR was 20 BPM higher than on the previous occasion and suddenly realised my error!!
Regardless, I decided to carry on and therefore did a density set of Kettlebell jerks using the same format as before.
This turned out to be a real slog. Grinding out the 10 reps per arm once I got to the 24 and above was a real slog. My heart spent the majority of it's time above 170.
To be honest I went slightly over capacity here, form went a little off and I was probably lucky to get away injury free.
Here are the stats:

Jerks
12KG x 10/10 HR 159
16KG X 10/10 HR 167
20KG X 10/10 HR 173
24KG X 10/10 HR 174
28KG X 10/10 HR 177
32KG X 10/10 HR 178
28KG X 10/10 HR 177
24KG X 10/10 HR 176
20KG X 10/10 HR 177
16KG X 10/10 HR 176
12KG X 10/10 HR 174

Totals:
Time: 23 minutes
Average HR: 168
Peak HR: 178
CALS: 388
REPS: 220

Todays session 03/02/11 Kettlebell ladder, very tough!

Hi folks. Wow, that was a tough session!
36 minutes of intense kettlebell training, requiring plenty of resilience and determination. I will tell you the Heart rate stats now:
Cals: 600
Average: 167
Peak heart rate: 181
Bearing in mind that my heart rate didnt go below 170 for the last 25 minutes will give you an idea of what a great session this is and well worth trying.

OK, Here's the exercises used.
7 exercises:

Swings
Snatch L/H
Snatch R/H
Cleans L/H
Cleans R/H
Squat and press L/H
Squat and press R/H

Set 1,swings 30 seconds

30 seconds rest

Set 2 Swings 30 seconds, L/H Snatch 30 seconds

Rest 30 seconds

Set 3 Swings, L/H snatch, R/H snatch all 30 seconds. Continue adding an exercise like this until you get to all 7.

So basically you are initially working for 30 seconds but build up to 3 and a half minutes at the longest set containing all of the exercises.
You then reverse it.
Start with all 7 exercise again but start with the last exercise first so do the Squat and press on the R/H side first and then move on to the L/H side. Continue back up the ladder until you have done all 7.
This is the toughest part of the workout because the middle section contains 2 lots of 3 and a half minutes work!
You then continue but now knock one of the front end each set. So, first of all the swings will go so you'll be doing 6 sets. Then knock off the snatch L/H so you'll be doing 5 sets. Continue until you just have the one set of Squat and press on the right side.

Don't forget to rest 30 second after each round.
Rest one minute after you reach the half way point just prior to reversing the ladder.

This equates to 8 sets performed of each exercise as when you reverse it will balance itself out.

I used a 24 kg bell. It all starts off a bit easy as initially you are only working for very brief periods but the accumulated fatigue soon takes hold once you get into the session.

I struggled most of all once I got past the half way point. The squat and presses are a real killer when you are starting to fatigue.
Give it a go with a kettlebell that will work you hard. You can always extend the rest periods or reduce the weight at the half way point but try not to.

Alternatively, work with 6 exercises only as opposed to 7. This shotens the workout by some 7 minutes.